I live in the west. Cowboys, cows, range land and endless clear skies. Do you remember watching the TV show Bonanza? It’s just one mountain range to the west of where I am currently typing this post. Did you ever watch John Wayne’s last movie, The Shootest? I can drive to where they filmed that. Forests and deserts, lakes and rivers, cattle and horses, all are an easy drive from my home. It’s beautiful here. It’s magical to watch the thunderheads build over Mt. Rose, just south east of my perch on the rim of the Reno basin. An afternoon wind can clear the sky or rise the dust on a dry lake bed.
The burners come back through town this time of year, covered in alkaline dust that will add $250 to their car rental fee.
It is and has always been a dangerous place to live. The desert burns, the mountains freeze, the thunderstorm raises a flash flood to catch the unaware, and that refreshing wind carries the smoke and embers of the wildfires. Fire, it’s always been here, but we build our homes in its path and don’t understand our loss.
Earlier this month Heather and I drove up to see our grandson who has moved to the Seattle area for his first job out of college. Before we left, I checked the weather and road conditions. Being late summer in this part of the world, I also checked the status of the many wildfires that we might drive near. The last count I saw was that this fire season there are 67 major fires burning in the western US. It will go down as the worst fire year in a decade. It hasn’t made the news much, because most of the fires are remote and few homes have burned.
Still, the Bear fire was burning just to the west of the first highway we drove up on our way to Crater Lake. It’s a 16 hour drive from our home to Seattle and we’d decided to do it in two days. We arrived in Crater Lake in the early afternoon and discovered that the north entrance to the park was closed due to the Middle Fork fire. The hotel I’d booked was about 20 miles north of the park. That turned into a 70 mile detour to the south and around the western edge of the park before we could turn north again to Diamond Lake.
We had dinner that night in Diamond Lake and I was impressed by the number of firefighters who had taken the evening off to have a nice dinner. I wasn’t sure if these were crews who’d just been released from duty or were just arriving to join the crews mopping up the fire. They had a map at the resort that showed how close the fire had come to the lake.
When we arrived in Seattle the next day, we started to get the news of a fire closer to home, the Davis fire. It started about 10 miles from our house and was burning up into the Mt. Rose area. That’s the opposite direction from our home. For the next two days we followed the news of the fire as we drove home through eastern Washington and Oregon. Along the way we stopped at the Oregon Trail Interpretive Center and learned more about the American migration into the west during the late 1800’s. That’s a story of hardship and loss. Not all those who sought life in the west prospered. According to the statics we read, one in ten died on the trail before arriving.
By the time we pulled into our driveway, the Davis fire had been burning for three days. 20,000 people had been evacuated, 5,000 acres burned, there were just over 600 firefighters on the fire lines and no containment — just a worry that winds the next day could push the fire over the fire lines where more people were being warned of possible evacuation. The air was hazy, you could smell burning wood and we wondered which of our friends had been forced to leave. It was a week before they lifted evacuation orders.
Since then, there has been rain, cooler winds and the power has been restored to the affected homes. The garbage company parked large dumpsters in the evacuation areas to handle all the spoiled food from refrigerators that went a week without power. We dusted ash and cold black embers off our walkways and garden.
And then the skies cleared. The big puffy clouds are rolling through again and in the mornings the air smells of fresh sagebrush. In the afternoon the breeze comes up and leaves a fait hollow whistling in my ears.
I live in the west, this is our life.